Back to reality

After a gentle bumble on a train back from Thurso to Inverness past all the lovely scenery we'd ridden past in the other direction, a supermarket sweep through the Inverness M&S to buy ourselves a celebration picnic for the sleeper, and a sleeper train from Inverness to Euston, we are very firmly back to reality in London. It seems shockingly loud and busy and frenetic after the lovely peace and tranquility of the Scottish Highlands. Where have all these people come from?????

You'll be reassured to know that Rachel and I made sure we celebrated the end of our trip in style on the sleeper train, with some bubbly (thank you, Albert and Michael K), and two bagfuls of food, which all disappeared alarmingly fast. It's very tricky to take photos while squeezed into the corner of a sleeper carriage, but here you go…

 Before our farewells, we had a final coffee at St Pancras, and assembled our trip rankings, which are as follows:

Best Climb: The one from Fort Augustus to the 7 Lochs view - the 12%-er (special mention to the Cheddar Gorge, and Rachel's and my race to the top)

Best descent: Auchenstroan, in the rain, just before the "hot bacon rolls" lunch break

Best cafe: - tricky, this one, but after much thought, it has to be the cake cafe; Light Ash Farm, south of Lancaster. Special mentions to Churchinford community cafe, which was the end of the beginning, and Carsphairn (Hot bacon rolls). Also to the cafe in Shap, just for being there when we were so cold and wet and in so much need of warming up.

Steepest climb: the small but brutal ascent on the cycle route just before Keynsham, when we were all desperate to stop turning the pedals around.

Best section: - much discussion of this, and no consensus: Jane - Invergarry to Invershin
Matt - Day 2 through Devon
Rachel - Day 3 from Devon to Keynsham through the lovely Somerset Levels
Andy - I can't remember!

Moment of the trip - the Isle of Arran TT (racing to catch the ferry)

Best Coffee: on the Ardrossan Ferry (a Jane and Rachel nomination)

Best accommodation - we stayed in some really great places, with very few turkeys, but the unanimous nomination for best of all was Pentland Lodge House in Thurso for huge and comfortable beds, great breakfast, lovely dogs, and a super-friendly welcome.

Most random food eaten: Chicken and haggis in cajun cream sauce at Eden Bridge House (surprisingly nice, apparently)

Best Sticky Toffee Pudding: Eden Bridge House

Most dangerous meal: The Jalalabad curry in Leominster. What were we thinking? But…..

Best meal: The Jalalabad curry in Leominster

Best paddy - Andy in Cafe Nero in Nantwich (non arrival of raspberry muffin) Jane in closed pub car park near Nantwich (needing to go to the loo) Rachel - midge frenzy in Altnahara Hotel car park

Most inappropriate moment: Rachel behind a tree in Altnahara hotel car park

And finally, the official trip stats: Miles - 1022 (longer than the official distance because we took scenic B roads) Metres climbed - 18328. More than twice the height of Everest. Calories burned - 47,691. Calories consumed - at least 50,000 because I am HEAVIER than when I set out. How is that possible? And now it's all over - but it was undoubtedly a trip none of us will ever forget.

We made it!

Day 13

Thurso to John O Groats.

Miles - 20.1, Calories burned - 910, Metres climbed - 186.

There were times last week, looking at the filthy wet and windy weather forecast, when I wondered whether we would be beaten by the weather. But we have been incredibly lucky, and had light breezes at most, and even some sunshine for much of our time in Scotland - other than the torrential day riding through Ayr to Ardrossan.

Today was more Scottish - a stiff wind, and rain in the air. We knew we had to get to John O Groats and back to catch our train, so we were up for an early breakfast. You know you're on an endurance holiday when your alarm goes off at 6.15.
Andy had a bowl of porridge big enough to sink a battleship, and Matt, for the first time, was defeated by his fry-up. The landlady presented us with a miniature of local single malt to toast our success (just what you want at 7 in the morning), and we were then blown all the way to John O Groats by the wind.

It should have been an amazing moment- it was an amazing moment - but we were momentarily thrown off course by the sight of a bloke posing for a self timer photo in front of the LEJOG sign, then stripping off to his underpants and posing again. He assured us he was going to win £100 in a bed by freezing himself to death and making himself look like an idiot!

Putting him aside, I'm struggling to describe the sense of achievement when we arrived. It's been building over the last couple of days as we've got closer. But to know that you've ridden the entire length of the country, and kept on going for day after day of exhaustion and general bodily pain is a great feeling. It's been a true adventure, a fantastic thing to do with Rachel and Andy, wonderful to share the experience with Angela and Michael, Albert and Rosemary and Ann and Jill, and brilliant to see the variety and loveliness of the UK and to have fleeting encounters with so many friendly people.

Yesterday, I felt I could just keep riding my bike north forever. Now, watching the countryside we rode through pass by from the windows of the train, I feel intensely relieved to be sitting on a comfy seat, with the pink pinarello packed up in the bike compartment.

Last night in Thurso

Day 12
Invergarry to Invershin

Miles - 82.8, Calories burned 3917, Metres climbed -1198

I am writing this on the train from Thurso to Inverness, enjoying the odd sensation of having glorious countryside pass me by without having to exert any effort at all. Yes, over 1000 miles later, after climbing almost the equivalent of Mount Everest TWICE, with not a single puncture to show for it, and having consumed enough cake, bananas, energy bars and cheese toasties to fuel the entire England Rugby World Cup squad for a month, we have made it all the way to John O Groats.

But I am getting ahead of myself - first for Day 12's ride.

We left the friendly, cosy Invershin Hotel waved off by the owner's very sweet very red haired children. Every morning has felt that bit more chilly as we have travelled north, and today we could see our breath in the air. We could also see clouds of midges, still hanging around ready to attack, in spite of the fact that it's mid September. To escape the midges, we headed smartly up the road. We were riding on the A836 all morning. There's nothing very complicated about navigation this far north. And it's the only A road I've ever been on that's singletrack with passing places.

We rode alongside another gorgeous peaty river, and then beside Loch Shin for a while, before we were out on the truly bleak and wild moors, past the legendary Le Crask Inn, which was up for sale - a business opportunity? We recklessly decided it was too early for us to stop for our first lunch, and pushed on to Altnahara - a mistake, because it is about as far from being a metropolis as it is possible to imagine, and the hotel was very firmly closed. We resorted to bananas and energy bars in the car park, with Rachel hopping  around swiping at the midges. You pay a price for still, sunny days this far north.

We spotted at least one buzzard, and a grey heron - a real one this time, rather than the plastic one Andy got so excited about yesterday, and saw starlings lining up by the hundred on telegraph wires. As we rode up the River Naver (Strath Naver) on a tiny B road of immaculately smooth tarmac, we passed the very classy Range Rovers of the local fly fishermen, all fitted out with special fishing rod holders on their bonnets. We speculated about whether they come as standard when you buy a 4WD around here.

And then two excitements almost at the same time - our first sight of the sea... We'd made it to the north coast of the UK... And our first sign to John O Groats!

By the time we struggled up the next hill to the aptly named Betty Hill tearoom, 54 miles in, we were very ready for a break, and the cheerful smiles of Ann and Jill waiting for us were most welcome.

The last 30 miles were extremely tough, and the Victoria Sponge from Betty's only did so much to help. It felt as if we'd gone full circle, and were back in Cornwall, with bleak fishermen's cottages, sheep grazing in the fields above the cliffs, a steep up and down coast road, and bright blue sea and sky. The only things that distinguished it were the distant mountains, and the sight of Dounreay nuclear power station up ahead of us!

And then, at last, in my case feeling shattered yet again, we rolled into Thurso to the friendly and comfortable Pentland Lodge House and for an excellent last night meal with Ann and Jill, ready for an early start for our final day.

20 miles to go....

Well, after over a thousand miles, more hills than I can count, and day after day of sheer exhaustion, our adventure is nearly over. We're in Thurso, with 20 miles left to go, before a mad dash back to catch the train.

The blog about yesterday will have to wait till we're on the train, but here we are on the north coast of Scotland, with Doun Reay nuclear power station in the background - lovely!

There have been many, many moments when we have all asked ourselves how much longer we have to do this for, but now that the end is so close, none of us wants it to end.

More later!

The 7 Loch view

Day 11 Invergarry to Invershin (near Bonar Bridge)

Miles - 98.5, metres climbed - 1424, calories burned 4668.

Today was the kind of day road biking was invented for. The sun was shining as we left the hotel, and our first  6 miles were along a rolling road before turning off and heading uphill along General Wade's military road past Loch Tarff. The river to our right was shimmering in the sunshine, and the sun was shining through the trees, creating stripes of shade on the road. The hills were purple with heather, and green and tawny brown, and the loch was blue under the clear sky.

We arrived at the viewpoint at the top of the climb at the same time as a couple of bikers (motor bikes) from Bradford, who were ultra chatty, and took lots of group photos for us. We all agreed that a glorious day like this was extra wonderful in the knowledge that it was filthy, wet and stormy back at home in London.

The sign at the viewpoint said we could see seven lochs from where we were standing. I'm not sure I could spot all 7, but I could certainly see 3. Having said our farewells to the biker, we had a long and swoopy descent, only stopping when we arrived at a view of Loch Ness that was so perfect, it looked as if it had been photo shopped.

We rolled into Inverness for lunch sitting outside by the river - who'd have thought it, in late September? Then on over the Kessock Bridge across the Beauly Firth, and along the coast, before heading inland past Cromarty. Last week in the Community Cafe and when we passed a ploughing competition, we felt as if we were in an episode of The Archers. Today we were in the shipping forecast. Which Radio 4 programme will be next?

Lunch no 2 was in Alness, a former Britain in Bloom winner, with hanging baskets as far as the eye could see. At this point, we felt as if we'd gone back to the Midlands - the landscape was back to being rolling farmland, with pretty cottages by the road, and tractors grinding past us, and huge bales of golden straw lined up in the fields. But before long we were in Scottish heather and bracken again, with a blue and brown loch below us.

Our last 20 miles were pretty hard going, but we kept up our pace by riding nose to tail, and finally got to our hotel at 7.15 to find Ann and Jill waiting for us. There was a fire going in the bar, and we ate a very welcome dinner. Tomorrow another big day awaits us. Unbelievably, our last big ride, just as I'm really beginning to enjoy it, and it looks as if our luck on the weather is about to come to an end....
 

You take the high road and we'll take the low road...

Day 9 - Kilmelford to Invergarry Miles 85.8, calories burned 4016, metres climbed - 1120. We had high expectations of breakfast, having seen the visitor's book, and it didn't disappoint.

I fear the same may not have been true for Rosemary and Albert. Sadly, Glenmore Country House only had two rooms, so they had to make do with the Cuilfail hotel down the road. Once again, they provided us with enough snacks to power us all the way to John O Groats. We said our farewells, before heading down the road, crossing our fingers for the weather, which was looking much better than predicted.

After our "rest" day yesterday, I was feeling good, and powered my way up the hill from the village, and along the road by the loch, enjoying the good weather and lovely views. Andy was ahead, and Rachel behind. The route was straightforward - just one turnoff a few miles before Oban to take the nice quiet road rather than the A road to Fort William. Unfortunately, none of us noticed when we zoomed past the turnoff, and Matt, just behind, was left texting and phoning each of us in vain. The three of us rolled into Oban with a look of dismay on our faces, as we realised where we were. So while Matt enjoyed the quiet country route to Connel, we whizzed along the A 82 accompanied by multiple lorries and cars.

Luckily, we all arrived at the same time, and we stuck close together as we continued on towards Fort William, enjoying a road which had been attended to by the work experience white line painter. There were bits of white line blobbed all over the road.  We stopped for lunch no 1 just outside Appin in a cafe  with stunning views and enjoyed the feeling of being the youngest in the place by some decades. Rachel liked the sofas so much she didn't want to leave.

Sections of the road had the smoothest, newest cycle path Tarmac running next to them. Non cyclists will have no idea how much difference the quality of the surface can make, and the road was pretty rough, so it came in very welcome. We applauded Nicola Sturgeon's investment in cycle path maintenance.

The rain finally arrived just before we got to Fort William, but even then it was only a shower, and we could see from the roads that we'd missed much worse.
We were glad to get away from the traffic and mad drivers north of Fort William and to get back onto quiet roads.

We were back to cafe free countryside, but just as Rachel's and my spirits were distinctly flagging, Andy and Matt spotted a posh hotel by the road serving tea. I'm not sure how pleased they were to see four cycling scruffs, but their scone gave me the energy for the last 20 miles to Invergarry.

Ann drove us over to Fort Augustus for dinner with her and Jill. The sticky toffee pudding went down very well.

Another great day, and the end seems to be rushing towards us. Having spent the last two weeks asking myself how much longer I have to do this for, I now don't want it to end.

Ferry Day

Miles - 61.9, calories burned - 2960, metres climbed - 953 Ardrossan to Kilmelford, Day 8 (yesterday was actually Day 7) Today was the day Rachel and I have been looking forward to since about day 2 - the closest we get to a rest day, when we have the opportunity to sit on not one but two ferries, and only (!) have to ride 60 miles. I have to say, much as I may now be spending a lot of time complaining about rain, sore legs, general exhaustion etc etc, today was a fantastic day, and not just because we got to sit in the Ardrossan to Brodick (on Arran) ferry and drink cappuccino for nearly an hour. For one thing, we had glorious, uninterrupted sunshine until mid-afternoon, reminding us that while Scotland is breathtakingly lovely in any weather, it's especially spectacular in the sun. And for another, the scenery was stunning - real Highlands and Islands splendour. Just in case we thought we were having a rest day, Matt told us that we needed to aim for the 12pm Lochranza ferry. We were late getting off the Brodick Ferry, leaving us barely more than an hour to ride 14 miles up and over Arran. We pelted up the climb, whizzed down the other side, Rachel nearly took out an old man quietly crossing the road in Lochranza, and we made the ferry with 3 minutes to spare. Andy christened it the Isle of Arran TT. We rewarded ourselves with the monster flapjacks and millionaire shortbreads we'd bought in the Cheshire mega cake shop a couple of days ago, (more than compensating for the calories we'd just burned) and basked in the sun for half an hour.

Then it was a quick 10 miles to lunch outside Tarburt. Just the one lunch today - the shorter ride and the mega snacks on the ferry didn't justify a second one. After a few miles of drafting (ie - for any non cyclists reading this - riding close to each other, taking turns on the front to conserve energy) up a busy road along the coast, we turned off the main road up a canal with multiple lochs, and then up a sea loch, looking out for seals (didn't see any), and across Moon Morh, a flat and reedy stretch with mountains behind, and sheep hiding in the grasses, before finally arriving at the splendidly grand Glenmore Country House in Kilmelford, where we sat in the drawing room overlooking the loch, drinking tea and eating scones. Then a bit of a midge-ridden walk down to the village to meet Rosemary and Albert for dinner in the Cuilfail Hotel, complete with bagpipes on the wall and every variety of single malt you can imagine. The game on the way home up the muddy track in the dark was scaring Rachel with ghost stories. We went to bed quaking at the prospect of another wet and - even worse - windy forecast for tomorrow. Sorry - late blog because of flakey wifi.