Last night in Thurso

Day 12
Invergarry to Invershin

Miles - 82.8, Calories burned 3917, Metres climbed -1198

I am writing this on the train from Thurso to Inverness, enjoying the odd sensation of having glorious countryside pass me by without having to exert any effort at all. Yes, over 1000 miles later, after climbing almost the equivalent of Mount Everest TWICE, with not a single puncture to show for it, and having consumed enough cake, bananas, energy bars and cheese toasties to fuel the entire England Rugby World Cup squad for a month, we have made it all the way to John O Groats.

But I am getting ahead of myself - first for Day 12's ride.

We left the friendly, cosy Invershin Hotel waved off by the owner's very sweet very red haired children. Every morning has felt that bit more chilly as we have travelled north, and today we could see our breath in the air. We could also see clouds of midges, still hanging around ready to attack, in spite of the fact that it's mid September. To escape the midges, we headed smartly up the road. We were riding on the A836 all morning. There's nothing very complicated about navigation this far north. And it's the only A road I've ever been on that's singletrack with passing places.

We rode alongside another gorgeous peaty river, and then beside Loch Shin for a while, before we were out on the truly bleak and wild moors, past the legendary Le Crask Inn, which was up for sale - a business opportunity? We recklessly decided it was too early for us to stop for our first lunch, and pushed on to Altnahara - a mistake, because it is about as far from being a metropolis as it is possible to imagine, and the hotel was very firmly closed. We resorted to bananas and energy bars in the car park, with Rachel hopping  around swiping at the midges. You pay a price for still, sunny days this far north.

We spotted at least one buzzard, and a grey heron - a real one this time, rather than the plastic one Andy got so excited about yesterday, and saw starlings lining up by the hundred on telegraph wires. As we rode up the River Naver (Strath Naver) on a tiny B road of immaculately smooth tarmac, we passed the very classy Range Rovers of the local fly fishermen, all fitted out with special fishing rod holders on their bonnets. We speculated about whether they come as standard when you buy a 4WD around here.

And then two excitements almost at the same time - our first sight of the sea... We'd made it to the north coast of the UK... And our first sign to John O Groats!

By the time we struggled up the next hill to the aptly named Betty Hill tearoom, 54 miles in, we were very ready for a break, and the cheerful smiles of Ann and Jill waiting for us were most welcome.

The last 30 miles were extremely tough, and the Victoria Sponge from Betty's only did so much to help. It felt as if we'd gone full circle, and were back in Cornwall, with bleak fishermen's cottages, sheep grazing in the fields above the cliffs, a steep up and down coast road, and bright blue sea and sky. The only things that distinguished it were the distant mountains, and the sight of Dounreay nuclear power station up ahead of us!

And then, at last, in my case feeling shattered yet again, we rolled into Thurso to the friendly and comfortable Pentland Lodge House and for an excellent last night meal with Ann and Jill, ready for an early start for our final day.